The Beacon Hill Revue

Out on the Town

January 18, 2005

Something for Everyone at Pierrot
by Elizabeth Navisky

When Maison Robert closed last year, many admirers of the elegant French eatery felt abandoned and confused. But now, those devotees have a new, albeit more rustic, home at Pierrot, a French bistro owned by Maison Robert veteran and Beacon Hill resident Pierre Sosnitsky, with the kitchen currently being run by Jacky Robert.

As is stated on the menu, Pierrot means “Mister Everyman” - a character with all the different qualities shared by mankind. The food served reflects this. It is hearty, straightforward fare, and there is something for everyone, even strict vegetarians who can delight in the vegetarian platter (though a bit bland, still a welcome addition for a traditional French bistro). But for all its gusto, Pierrot still has an understated grace and an attention to detail that matters. The cloth towels in the restroom, the individual square bread plates with flowered pats of butter, and the attentive service make diners feel cared for.

Best of all, Pierrot is reasonably priced. The appetizers range from $5.25 to $13.95 and are filling. The romaine salad with roquefort dressing and crushed walnuts ($6.95) is perfectly dressed so that each leaf has the ideal amount of tangy dressing. While the fresh duck foie gras with spiced bread is the most expensive of the appetizers at $13.95, you certainly get your money’s worth. The two lobes of creamy foie gras served with a dense, sweet bread and chewy apple rings is a small meal by itself.

The entrees range from $13.75 for the vegetarian platter to $27.75 for the steak au poivre. The not-so-French lobster risotto ($27.00) is mild, and the lobster is perfectly cooked. But the real stand out is the duck confit ($16.75), a flavor explosion of sumptuous duck meat balanced by vinegary cabbage. All entrees (save the risotto) are accompanied by crisp, shredded potatoes. There is also a prix fixe option, which includes a starter, entrÈe and dessert for an incredible $28.95.

Desserts feature the crËmes: crËme caramel and crËme brulÈe. There are also the traditional profiteroles, a soufflÈ made to order and a pungent cheese platter. Though it says on the menu that the character Pierrot is an uncaring prankster, quite the opposite is true at this perfect French bistro.